The Newbie’s Guide to Cycling Around Taiwan

We wanted a slower way to see Taiwan and thanks to a little inspiration from some YouTubers we had met back in Laos, we ultimately chose bikes to do what is called a 環島 (huán dǎo, literally 'around the island').

It was brutal in certain moments, but at the same time, we gave ourselves permission to be human. We didn’t count watts, we counted moments. We took trains when our legs asked for mercy, we added rest days when the weather had other plans, or we loved a place to leave too early, and we built a trip that felt like a conversation with the island rather than a race around it.

If you want to cycle around Taiwan without being a pro, this is how we did it. We’ll start with simple logistics that actually help, then share our day‑by‑day, including the late starts, the steep hills, the quiet beaches, the night markets, the temple lights, and the fixes that kept us moving.

This guide is for anyone who wants to cycle around Taiwan at a relaxed pace (we promise, it still will be a challenge). Expect practical steps, a route you can copy or shorten or lengthen, YouTube videos of our experiences, plenty of tips, and the kind of small wins that turn a hard day into a good story.

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Essential Tips for Cycling Around Taiwan: Rentals, Safety, Best Seasons, and More

When is the Best Time to Cycle Around Taiwan?

Seasons matter. Spring and fall are kind(er). Summer is hot, and typhoons can change everything. Winter, especially on the east coast, brings wind and wet days that push you inside.

We went in October, which is one of the more recommended times to go. It happened to be just a few weeks after Taiwan was hit by a super typhoon and part of the East flooded, but fortunately the likelihood of typhoons get less and less around this time.

For the first two weeks, the weather was sunny every single day. However, do not underestimate the heat in Taiwan at this time. Because we were leaving quite late every day, we would find ourselves biking in the middle of the day under immense heat and need to take more breaks. During the third week, as we were biking up the east coast, the weather changed quite drastically to windy and rainy, so the headwinds and rain added multiple dimensions of difficulty, where we had to readjust our trip.

No matter when you decide to go, the weather changes add to fun and unpredictability of your cycling around Taiwan adventure. So just roll with it. For season timing and what winter can feel like, we found people’s firsthand planning questions and answers, like this January Route 1 discussion, helpful for expectations.

Holidays in Taiwan

Outside of weather, it is good to be aware of festivals and holidays happening in Taiwan. Festivals can close food spots early. The Moon Festival caught us wandering hungry more than once, so we sometimes had to resort to 7-11 dinners, which can be surprisingly delicious.

A man wearing a blue rain poncho strikes a playful pose in a green field, with mountains and a cloudy sky behind him—capturing the spirit of exploring scenic cycling routes Taiwan has to offer. — *Rain will most certainly make it into the biking equation at some point during your trip.*

A person with a backpack stands facing lush green mountains and the coast, framed by leafy branches, with a bicycle beside them under a cloudy sky—ready for a cycling adventure along scenic Taiwan bike routes. — *Moody late-October skies.*

Where to Begin Your Cycling Adventure in Taiwan

Starting Point: Taipei

Taipei is the most common gateway to Taiwan, so your cycling journey will most likely be starting from there, where you can get off the plane, decompress in the city a bit (we only gave ourselves 2 nights, but we recommend more if you are coming from far away), do some fun Taipei things, and rent your bikes.

Arrival in Taipei

If you are coming from afar, you most likely will be landing in at Taipei-Taoyuan. There is a smaller airport in the city, but that one caters to domestic flights and a few from neighboring countries like Japan and China.

Have a look at flights to Taipei and your first few nights of accommodations there!

Two tall skyscrapers lit up at night, with the central building brightly illuminated in blue and white lights, rise above trees and clouds—a stunning scene often admired along popular Taiwan cycling routes. — *Taipei will likely mark the start and end of your trip!*

The Best Bike Rental Shop in Taipei for Cyclists

We rented from MathewBike in Taipei. The team is simply wonderful. Mathew and his partner May founded the shop in 2016 and are thus super well-versed in sending people off on their cycling trips around Taiwan.

Four people stand smiling outside a shop, three holding certificates after a Taiwan bike adventure. Two bicycles are visible, and the group appears happy, posing casually by the glass door covered in stickers and signs. — *The beyond friendly May and Mathew giving us our certificates at the end of our ride!*

A few months before our trip, we got in touch with them, and they sorted out all the logistics for us via email. They recommended sturdy bikes designed by a friend who served in Taiwan's amphibious battalion, known as Froging. The robustness shows in the build. The frames felt tough, the gears were forgiving, and we felt pretty bad-ass biking around the island on them.

A black road bicycle with pink handlebar tape and a rear cargo rack stands upright on a street, ready for a cycling adventure. The metal shutter in the background hints at urban stops along the best Taiwan cycling routes. — *My baby! I never actually got to name her, but she was a trusty ride all the way through Taiwan.*

On the day of our arrival, they seamlessly set up our bikes and gave us all the tools we needed for a successful trip (lights, helmets, panniers, chain lube, spare tubes, a small pump, lock, and a basic kit) and we were in and out of the shop in around 30 minutes. They even provided us with their 15-day itinerary on Komoot which was especially helpful in the first few days until we were comfortable deviating a bit.

If you mentioned that Ryan and Fabio sent you from The Fabryk, you can get 100 TWD off your order.

Rent Your MathewBike!

We do not get any commission from this, but really enjoy their brand!

As mentioned, MathewBike provided all the essentials to make this ride as smooth as possible, but if you end up going with a different shop, make sure to ask the shop for:

A simple touring or hybrid bike with low gears
Rear rack and panniers
Chargeable front and rear lights, plus a bell
A basic tool kit: spare tubes that match your tires, tire levers, a mini pump, a patch kit, lube
A phone holder for navigation
A lock
A quick brake check and a fast test ride to set saddle height and check shifters

Many shops in Taipei are experienced with cyclists wanting to bike around Taiwan, so it shouldn't be too difficult to get all the gear you need.

Understanding the Biking Route: Key Insights and Tips

There is what is known as Taiwan Cycling Route No.1, which is a prescribed route that goes 968 km all the way around the island (with a mix of highways with shoulder space and bike lanes). Signage is pretty ample, but not enough that you should disregard using a navigational app.

A painted white arrow with a blue outline and a cyclist symbol, along with the number 1, appears on an asphalt road surface, marking one of the popular Taiwan cycling routes and indicating a designated bike lane or path direction. — *You'll see these signs all the way around the island.*

The most common route is going counterclockwise, so heading down the west side, to the south, and back up the east side towards Taipei. The west side gives you industry, ports, city life, wide shoulders, and long, workable stretches. The south gives you a slow pace of life, national parks, and stunning beaches you can swim in. The east opens up into big water, green ridges, slightly scarier roads, and views that make you forget your legs are tired. We mixed in trains, so our trip fit real life.

We kept our daily goals small. Forty to seventy kilometers felt right. We planned early starts, then forgave ourselves when we started late (almost every day 😜). When a day felt too big, we split it in two or grabbed a train. That flexibility kept us happy and safe.

For big‑picture planning, we liked reading about Cycling Route 1 and beginner tips from newbie‑friendly Taiwan cycling guides. Seeing how others handled the island helped us trust our own pace.

Let's have a closer look at the maps in the next section.

Maps and Route Planning Insights

Let's compare what MathewBike provided us with versus the route we actually took (with trains). We honestly had the intention of trying to do the exact route they gave to us (with a few added day to rest in places we wanted to see more of), but after day 1, where we cycled 95 km in one day, we knew we were going to have to make some changes. The biking routes are in red and the trains we took are in blue.

The Expected Route

The expected route would have totaled just under 1,300 kilometers, with many long daily cycle sessions.

The Actual Route

This route totaled over 856 kilometers, with roughly 40 - 70 km on days when we were actually cycling. It also included quite a few side-quests (ex. the Qigu salt mound in Tainan, the Shoushan Monkey Mountain in Kaohsiung). We definitely wish we could have fit in all the places from the expected route, but we had to be realistic based on our slower pace.

The bike routes are in red and the train routes are in blue.

We've also included some of our favorite places along the way in this map, so go ahead and save it!

Navigating the Route: Traffic Insights and Tips

The route is a mix of secondary highways with wide shoulders, designated bike lanes, and small cycling paths. The only time we felt a bit nervous was the first time outside of Taipei, where the bike lanes changed to highways. However, we soon realized how accustomed drivers are to cyclists, as they gave us space. On the east coast, the road can become a bit narrow at times, with not much shoulder for bikers, but this tends to last only for short stretches.

Traffic norms are clear: cars mostly give space, and shoulders are wide. Dedicated bike lanes appear and vanish without warning, so we treated them as a bonus, not a guarantee.

The most annoying aspect was biking in the cities, as the light changes can be painfully slow and red lights very frequent. You always have to factor in a bit more time when biking through urban areas. In the cities, we followed the scooters; for example, if we needed to turn left at an intersection, we would tend to cross straight ahead first and then wait for the next light switch to cross perpendicularly (there are small boxes common for waiting to do this).

Taiwan still has a lot to improve in this respect, as roads for bikers could be even better. However, there was never a time when we felt extremely unsafe—except for the moment we accidentally merged onto the main highway on day one in the dark, but that was very much our mistake.

A round convex mirror reflects two people posing for a photo in a lush green field, with mountains and a cloudy sky behind them—a fleeting moment from their memorable cycle around Taiwan. The mirror slightly distorts their images. — *Taiwan generally feels very safe for biking. Cars, people, scooters, and bikes co-exist with a lot of harmony.*

Essential Packing List for Your Cycling Adventure

Keep it light if you can, under 10 kg on the bike. There are plenty of hotels and guesthouses along the way that have washing machines and dryers (or they are on the street if you are in cities), so you'll need fewer cycling outfits than you think.

Here is roughly what we recommend packing:

Number 1 item: Biking shorts with soft butt padding (we got ours at Decathlon and loved them). Your butt will get used to it, but the first few days are truly painful.
Sunscreen
Hat (this was more for walking around since you'll use helmets otherwise)
Power bank, even better if you can find a way to attach this to your handlebars if your phone battery is a disaster like ours
Refillable water bottle. While water out of the tap isn't potable everywhere in Taiwan, you will find water filters in 99% of the places you stay, so you don't need to keep buying plastic bottles from convenience stores.
Maximum of 3 or 4 T-shirts or tank tops (and underwear). You will sweat through them like crazy, but again you have plenty of options for laundry. 1 or 2 pairs of shorts, so you don't have to walk around in just your sexy biking spandex.
1 pair of sneakers
Maybe a nice outfit if you are like us and enjoy combining city visits with some nightlife adventures.
Rain jacket. We honestly didn't bring this 😜 and until the third week, we had no problems with rain at all anyway. But when the weather did change a bit...
A warm layer (again this depends on the time of year you are going, but in October, I think we used this like twice, and it was mostly on trains where they blast the A/C).
Cameras, GoPros, all that jazz, if you like to create content like we do.
Snacks/electrolytes (Pocari Sweat is our savior), although even this is not really essential as there are convenience stores quite frequently around the island (and occasionally bigger supermarkets), even in the more remote east, so we never went too long without needing a snack. We did carry instant coffee around though, as not all hotels and guesthouses served coffee.
Toiletries. I am just mentioning these as, in general, amenities kits provided by hotels have been banned in Taiwan in recent years for environmental reasons, so carrying around a toothbrush and basic toiletries is a good idea.
Travel Insurance. This isn't a physical item per se, but a necessary one! We had many close calls and having travel insurance to protect ourselves always gave us reassurance. We always go with Genki and even wrote a review for them.

Note: We left extra luggage at MathewBike and never missed it.

Two men in athletic wear stand on a concrete path beside a lush green field, with distant mountains and a cloudy sky—ready to embark on their cycling adventure along scenic Taiwan cycling routes. — *These spandex Decathlon booty shorts very much became our daily apparel.*

Traveling by Train with Your Bike: Tickets and Other Tips

The Taiwan Railways website shows schedules and bike-friendly trains in English. Don't hesitate to use trains, they're part of the experience here and honestly allowed us to see more of the country than if we had just tried to bike all of it.

Trains make the trip flexible and fun. Here's what to know:

Look for the green bike icon on online schedules and station boards
Buy both passenger and bike tickets at the counter or with ticketing vending machines, just make sure to look for bike-friendly trains and make sure to get the right amount of bikes
Most of the trains that allow bikes are slower, local trains, so you cannot get these tickets online in advance. You have to get them at the station, but we never had problems with booked-out trains, so don't worry too much.
Your bike ticket will either have front carriage or back carriage written on it, so make sure to find the spot on the platform you need to be. Feel free to ask the attendants there if you're not sure.
Arrive 20-30 minutes early, especially on weekends
Trains are pretty punctual here...make sure that you are at the side of the platform where you need to be with your bikes before the train comes, or you might be sprinting dangerously down the platform with your bike (or cycling down the platform, like Fabio did...which did not go down well with the angry train attendant 😳)
Taipei Main Station does not allow bikes, so if you need to get off in Taipei, like we did at the end of our journey, you can choose one of the other nearby stations (ex. Songjiang or Wanhua, like we did)

A screenshot of a train ticket booking website shows a table listing train routes, departure and arrival times, train numbers, fares, and a “VIA” mark highlighted in the row for Local Train 5211—useful for planning Taiwan cycling itineraries. — *Look for this green symbol when buying tickets and you'll have no problem!*

A man in a blue tank top sits on a train next to his bicycle and helmet, wearing earphones. Behind him, a window displays a sign reading 'Friendly Carriage at Morning/Night'—perfect for any Taiwan bike adventure. — *Proof that we took trains and we are human 😜. Fabio was very happy to be taking the train here, by the way.*

Tips for Finding Great Accommodations Around Taiwan

We will go into detail about some places that we particularly liked below when we go through our day-by-day itinerary, but here are some little tips when searching for accommodations:

Use both Agoda and Booking.com when choosing accommodations. If you are budget-conscious like we are, you will find that sometimes the same accommodation will be cheaper on one app than on the other. I would say we used mostly Agoda for this reason. Airbnb is also regularly used in Taiwan.
We stayed in a mix of hotels, guesthouses, hostels (with private rooms) and on a budget, were able to keep everything to an average of just over €30 a night.
It is very common for hotels to have windowless options, so just beware of this when you are booking accommodations and are slightly claustrophobic.
As we changed plans a lot, we very rarely booked hotels far in advance, so this meant a lot of last minute bookings. If you are on a budget, this strategy often works to your advantage, as many hotels will offer last-minute travel discounts on Agoda or Booking.com.

Start Booking Accommodations

Here is a map of all the places we stayed along the way.

Budget Breakdown: Daily Costs for Cycling Around Taiwan

We kept things simple and budget friendly. Rentals were mid‑range, rooms were budget but clean, and we ate where locals eat. Night markets helped the budget and added flavor. Museums and parks were usually low cost or free. Trains added small fees, including the bike ticket, and took pressure off our legs.

Here is how daily costs looked for us on average.

Category	Typical Daily Cost (USD)
Bike rental	10 to 20
Room (budget)	22 to 55
Food and drinks	15 to 30
Trains with bike	3 to 15 per ride
Sightseeing/museum	0 to 10

For food, night markets are the best friend of a budget. Coastal seafood can be great value because freshness is high and portions are generous.

A man in a green tank top and bike helmet poses playfully next to a colorful cartoon statue on a roadside, surrounded by tall grass and greenery—a fun stop along popular Taiwan cycling routes under a partly cloudy sky. — *Taking photos with mascots? Priceless.*

Staying Connected: Internet Access and Mobile Data in Taiwan

Our eSIM Pick for Taiwan

In a world of too many competing eSIMs, staying connected in Taiwan was the least of our worries. We used this Trip.com eSIM because we've used Trip.com's eSIMs in other places before and find them to be cheap and reliable compared to some flashier providers, like Airalo.

Initially, I signed up for a 30-day, 30 GB plan, but as I was using quite a lot of data per day just for navigation, I ran out after about 15 days. This was no problem, though, as you can renew the same eSIM directly in the app (the second time I chose 13 days, 2 GB per day to last me until the remainder of my trip). The only thing to note is that if you need to extend, like I did, and your initial days haven't expired, even if your data did, you need to contact customer support to finish the initial plan.

This eSIM worked reliably everywhere we went, even in some of the more rural areas in the east where we expected to be a bit more disconnected.

Take note that if you go with the Trip.com eSIM, the only apps that didn't work were ChatGPT and Gemini, as we reckon it is because they are Chinese-provided eSIMs and there is sketchy territory for OpenAI and similar services. All other apps generally banned in China worked (i.e., Instagram, Facebook, WhatsApp), so just something to be aware of if you use apps frequently.

Get an eSIM for Taiwan

Wi-Fi in Taiwan

Generally, it wasn't a problem to pick up Wi-Fi signals at convenience stores like 7-11 and FamilyMart, as well as major public spaces, like the Taipei Main Station. We didn't experience an excessively slow signal once on the whole island.

Essential Navigational Apps for Your Cycling Journey

We used Komoot quite religiously, although we honestly weren't so well-versed on it beforehand (I've used it only for running in the past). MathewBike provided routes through Komoot, and we ended up loving using it in the end, because the elevation maps came in handy to know how much of a hell-ish hill we had left. The only thing I don't love is the lack of turn-by-turn directions, so it made me overshoot roads sometimes when I wasn't paying enough attention.

Secondary to Komoot, we would use Google Maps, particularly just for getting us around the cities. Just take note that it helps to put the Chinese destination, as the translated version can sometimes be a little off, but generally we didn't have any problems finding where we needed to go.

Translation Apps for Navigating Taiwan

If you're not able to speak Mandarin Chinese (the lingua franca of Taiwan in addition to several other languages), don't worry too much. In many of the more urban areas, you will likely be able to get by with English. Alternatively, go ahead and get out that Google Translate app to translate.

Note: Taiwan uses Traditional Chinese and not Simplified Chinese, so remember to show written translations in Traditional. In general, we find it is much easier to travel around than China in the language respect.

Our Day-By-Day Biking Around Taiwan Itinerary

Overall, our journey took us around Taiwan in 20 days. If we could have had our way, we would have done it for longer. 20 days still feels rushed when there is so much to see around the island!

Anyway, let's get into our itinerary, tips, and some suggestions on where to stay along the way.

Days 1 to 7: Taipei to Hsinchu, Baishatun Village, Taichung, Chiayi, and Tainan

During the first week, we spent most of the time exploring Taiwan's west side. It was definitely a lot of cities and the cycling infrastructure was the most developed (cycling paths aplenty and secondary highways with bike paths and large shoulders). At the same time, there weren't too many hills, which made for a relatively smooth journey, aside from a few exceptions.

Day 1: Late Start Lessons - Bali Lunch and Night Ride to Hsinchu

We left MathewBike fully geared up, conveniently located next to the bike path marking the start of our journey. Departing Taipei on the coastal route felt simple at first, as the river bike paths guided us toward Bali (八里 district of New Taipei, not Bali, Indonesia 😉). We stopped for a late lunch and watched families enjoy their weekend.

Three colorful fishing boats are docked on a muddy shore, with a city skyline, river, and lush green mountains in the background—an inviting scene to discover along popular Taiwan bike routes under a clear blue sky. — *Just 1 hour in and already feeling a bit like this boat in Bali.*

Our plan was to cover 95 km, but a 1:30 p.m. departure from the bike shop proved optimistic. As darkness fell, we passed Taoyuan Airport and let the route lead us off the highway into quiet, eerie yet safe pockets. Hsinchu welcomed us around 10 p.m., but the Mid-Autumn Festival left us with slim pickings for dinner. We ate what we could find and slept hard.

Where to Stay in Hsinchu

We booked the Left Bank Hotel, which has the most questionable interior ever 😜 (see YouTube video above), but it was cozy, had such an included delicious breakfast to gear us up for the next leg of our trip, and was super close to all the local attractions.

Day 2: Exploring Hsinchu to Baishatun - A Journey Through Temple Towns

We rolled around Hsinchu by bike, then drifted through to Green Grass Lake on the edge of town.

A busy city street with yellow taxis, cars, and scooters near an old stone building with a clock tower. Tall modern buildings and colorful signs in Chinese line the street—a lively stop on many Taiwan cycling routes under a sunny sky. — *Hengchun Railway Station*

On Day 2, we kept things manageable and stopped in Baishatun, a temple town with a slower heart and famous for an annual pilgrimage. Before the sun went down, we bought a Taiwan Beer and watched the sunset from the beach just outside of town. Once in town, the Gongtian Temple was alive with Mid‑Autumn energy, but the night market closed early, a theme that week, so 7‑Eleven carried us to bed.

Silhouettes of people walking along a beach with shallow water pools at sunset, beneath an orange and purple sky—an inspiring scene for anyone dreaming of a cycling adventure or exploring Taiwan cycling routes. — *Drinking a Taiwan beer while watching the sunset here was an absolute pleasure!*

A brightly lit traditional Chinese temple at night features intricate carvings and decorations. Scooters and people are gathered near the entrance, with red lanterns and neon lights—an unforgettable stop on any Taiwan cycling itinerary. — *The Gongtian Temple with a 7-11 built in?!*

Where to Stay in Baishatun

No37 BAISHATUN旅處 all the way. Our guesthouse was spotless, the kind of clean that makes you exhale, with free snacks that felt like a hug.

Mileage, Terrain, and Tips for Non-Pros: Adjusting Your Cycling Experience

For non‑pros, split Taipei to Taichung into two or three days. Pack lights and reflective gear, plan for sunset buffers, and trust that wide shoulders make the west coast workable even when bike lane signs vanish.

Day 3: Discovering Gaomei Wetlands and Conquering the Challenging Ascent into Taichung

Day 3 started with one of the nicest breakfasts we've had, followed by long road shoulders and farm life, with small scenes we still remember, like a field of ducks moving as one and another field of wildflowers. Near Taichung Port, we detoured to the Gaomei Wetlands, where a boardwalk over mudflats revealed mudskippers and crabs, showcasing the island’s softer edges.

A man wearing a helmet, sunglasses, and a palm tree tank top stands smiling in a colorful flower field, taking a break from his Taiwan bike adventure. He holds one hand to his head as wind turbines and buildings rise under the clear sky behind him. — *One of our favorite little moments was coming across these wildflowers...*

A large group of white ducks with orange beaks and feet gathers on a rocky shore, creating a charming scene that could be spotted along one of the scenic Taiwan cycling routes, with some ducks standing in shallow water, drinking or dipping their heads. — *...and ducks! Even though we think these might be for food 😭.*

Two colorful fiddler crabs stand on wet, muddy ground near some grass—perfect sights to discover while exploring Taiwan cycling routes or setting off on a Taiwan bike adventure. One crab is mostly red and orange, the other a shiny purplish-blue. — *The little critters of Gaomei Wetlands*

The last climb into Taichung was a surprise; it was steep, then steeper, forcing us to walk sections while watching the port glow as the sun slipped behind it. We rolled into Taichung past dark (again). Dinner was a simple canteen plate of chicken with three greens and rice, a budget meal that tasted like triumph after a long day, along with traditional Taiwanese frozen desserts.

A narrow road winds through greenery toward a city, with power lines and tall pylons. Perfect for a Taiwan cycling itinerary, a motorbike rides away under an orange-pink sunset sky, distant lights twinkling through the haze. — *Damn, this sunset was cool, but we had expected to be in Taichung by this point!*

Where to Stay in Taichung

Our first hostel of the trip, Stray Birds, felt like a little city for travelers, offering clean rooms (private rooms for us, please!), strong Wi-Fi, and a co-working corner when we needed to catch up. It was seriously one of the best hostels we stayed in and one of our favorite accommodations from the trip.

Day 4: Relaxing in Taichung (or Exploring Sun Moon Lake)

You can take it easy today in Taichung if you decide to follow our path. Culture days kept our legs fresh and our hearts open. In Taichung, we wandered Rainbow Village, bright walls that feel like joy. We chased the bubble tea origin story too, knowing there is a friendly debate between Chun Shui Tang in Taichung and Hanlin Tea Room in Tainan. We sipped and smiled and let the story be the point.

If you want to see Taichung in a deeper, more meaningful way, check out this tour which takes you to the Rainbow Village mentioned above and far more than we got to see!

A person in a sleeveless shirt sits at a table with a bowl of noodles topped with green onions and a tall glass of bubble tea—a perfect treat after exploring Taiwan cycling routes. Another glass of bubble tea rests in the background. — *The original bubble tea?!*

Sun Moon Lake Alternative

Or, if your legs feel good, go to Sun Moon Lake for a scenic loop. Waiting a day can save energy for later climbs. We chose rest and a slow wander.

Day 5: Enjoying Chiayi - A Rewarding Experience Without Alishan

We grabbed our first local train to Chiayi to save our legs, aiming for Alishan the following morning but realizing our planning fell short when we arrived and realized we had been too spontaneous. The famed Alishan Forest Railway departs at 10 a.m., and return buses often sell out, meaning we would have arrived only to turn around an hour later. Instead, we embraced the city, which rewarded us with its charm.

Alishan Advice

If you do make the time to go up to Alishan, it comes highly recommended! There is a lot of natural beauty to be had. If you need more information on this, feel free to check out one of our favorite and most trusted blogs during our Taiwan cycling trip.

If you do only have a day, we discovered that there is a tour that takes you there and back all in a day, so you won't need to handle any other logistics.

Chiayi's specialty, turkey rice bowls, was simple yet perfect. We explored the preserved Chiayi Prison from the Japanese colonial era, a somber place that invites reflection. Hinoki Village felt like stepping into a small Japanese town, polished and dreamy, while the old railway yard reminded us of the logs that once came down from Alishan and the buildings they made possible.

A white bowl contains steamed rice topped with shredded chicken pieces and a whole braised egg, set on a reflective metal surface—a satisfying meal for those planning their Taiwan bike itinerary or looking to refuel on popular Taiwan cycling routes. — *Turkey rice from Chiayi! We recommend just walking into any place, as they are all good! (That egg on the right is a tea egg. You will soon learn to love those traveling around Taiwan.)*

A person with a backpack walks toward the entrance of a historic white building with arched doorways and traditional Chinese signage, perhaps pausing during their cycle around Taiwan to explore local landmarks. Two potted plants flank the walkway. — *The fascinating Old Prison of Chiayi.*

Three yellow and red trains are parked side by side on railway tracks in a train yard, with buildings and trees visible in the background—an inviting scene for anyone planning a Taiwan bike adventure or exploring popular Taiwan cycling routes. — *The old railway yard of Chiayi.*

Two nights in Chiayi allowed us to fully appreciate the city, but one night could also suffice.

Where to Stay in Chiayi

It is a bit hard to recommend the place we stayed 😆, unless you like really budget, old-time charm. The benefit was that it was super close to the train station to aid us in our incoming journey and onward journey to Tainan. However, if you are looking for something a bit nicer, go with the YOYO Hotel, which we passed often.

Day 6: Cycling Through Tainan and Exploring Anping's Rich History

Next, we trained to Tainan. We rode through National Cheng Kung University, the university I studied in 2012, remembering summer Mandarin classes and the food street that fed us those days. We pedaled to Anping Fort, the Dutch stronghold from the 1600s that used to sit out over the sea when the shoreline was different. It reminded us how many hands have shaped this island. We headed back tired and happy.

Close-up view of a bundle of thin, dry brown twigs hanging from a tree branch, with a blurred background of green leaves and sunlight—reminiscent of the natural beauty found along popular Taiwan cycling routes. — *The trees around Anping Fort are massive and super old!*

At night, we mustered up the energy to go out and experience some of Tainan's LGBTQ+ life and were not disappointed! We found a friendly karaoke bar, a small LGBTQ+ spot where we met locals who cheered our bad singing and shared their beers. Those nights stay with you.

Where to Stay in Tainan

Tainan was one of the more expensive places we stayed in, likely because it was the weekend, so we went a hostel called Shadow House with a private room, shared bathroom and once again, it was a really nice place. The place was clean, they had a cute cat theme going on, and cozy little nooks to chill and read.

A cozy room with a brown cushioned floor seat, blue pillows, and cat-themed decor—a perfect spot to plan your next Taiwan bike adventure or dream about the best Taiwan cycling routes as soft natural light fills the space. — *A cozy nook in Shadow House.*

Day 7: A Random Salt Mountain and Experiencing the Lively Tainan Garden Night Market

We gave ourselves a 50 km side quest to Qigu Salt Mountain. It is exactly what it sounds like, a hill of salt with family‑friendly exhibits about the old salt farm community nearby Tainan. Kids loved it, and we learned something.

A man wearing sunglasses and casual clothes stands with arms raised in front of a large, rocky hill with streaks of white—a stunning stop along popular Taiwan cycling routes. A warning sign with red Chinese characters is visible on the right. — *The Qigu Salt Mountain...very random, but worth the visit.*

That night on the way back, we braved the Tainan Garden Night Market, huge and loud and fun, with cheap eats on all sides. Seriously, it must have been the biggest night market we came across in Taiwan.

Tainan: A Foodie's Paradise

Tainan is absolutely brilliant for food-lovers, so I definitely recommend booking a food tour in Tainan, so you can try the local delicacies you might not get to try otherwise.

A bustling night market with colorful food stalls and bright Chinese signs, perfect to explore after a long day cycling around Taiwan. Families and friends enjoy food and drinks under string lights, soaking in the lively atmosphere. — *The madness of Tainan Garden Night Market!*

Days 8 to 13: Discovering the Southern Charms of Taiwan - Beaches, Cliffs, and Culinary Delights

The next week was about exploring the south of Taiwan. We didn't move as much as we did the first week, spending two nights in Kaohsiung and three nights down in Kenting. I had been to Kenting back in my university days, and felt like it was overrated back then, but this time I absolutely adored it, perhaps because Fabio scoped out a chilled out secret location with one of the best beaches we had ever been to.

The roads are a bit less developed for bikers, but that didn't mean we felt unsafe. There were times on the road down to Kenting when we didn't love the trucks rushing by us, but we were also very used to it at this point.

Day 8-9: Exploring Kaohsiung's Artistic Vibes

We arrived in Kaohsiung on late Sunday afternoon after biking from Tainan (and exploring the bizarrely Washington DC-esque Chimei Museum outside of Tainan), but took it easy and caught up on some work and recovered our legs. We didn't re-emerge properly until the Monday afternoon.

Kaohsiung surprised us with its vibrant, cyberpunk atmosphere. We began our exploration at the Pier‑2 Art Center, a collection of old Japanese-era warehouses transformed into art spaces, shops, and playful corners, all under the watchful eye of the Sky 85 Tower (which has allegedly been closed for a while). The vibe was generous and light, and we stumbled upon a simple beef noodle spot for a quick meal before resting early.

Where to Stay in Kaohsiung

We stayed at the Khan Hotel, which offered an incredible value to price ratio considering how central it was and how cozy the rooms were. We wouldn't recommend opting for the optional breakfast, as they just give you a voucher for a nearby restaurant, but staying there definitely was great!

A busy urban street in Taiwan with scooters, cars, and a yellow taxi. Tall buildings line both sides and a skyscraper rises in the background—an exciting scene for anyone planning a Taiwan cycling adventure through vibrant city routes. — *The gotham city vibes of Kaohsiung. Apparently part of this building is closed due to bad fengshui.*

A modern geometric building illuminated with purple and white lights stands by the water at dusk, along a scenic Taiwan bike route. A ship is docked nearby, city buildings rise in the background, and tree branches frame the left side of the image. — *The Kaohsiung Pop Culture Center.*

If you want to try out a tour that visit Pier-2, Fo Guang Shan Buddha Museum, and the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas...three famous sights in Kaohsiung, give this tour a go.

Day 10: Journey from Kaohsiung to Kenting at Golden Hour

Before leaving Kaohsiung, we tackled the short, steep trail of Shoushan, where macaques roamed freely. We observed them from a respectful distance, enjoying the view over the Taiwan Strait and the city below. The monkeys at Shoushan were polite, as long as we were too, making our last hours in Kaohsiung a memorable experience.

Two monkeys are on a wooden bench. One lies on its back while the other sits, gently grooming the other. The scene, with a metal fence and greenery in the background, is as peaceful as cycling itineraries along Taiwan cycling routes. — *The monkeys of Shoushan.*

To save time and tired legs, we caught a train to Fangliao, the southernmost station for this run.

Fangliao sets you up for a beautiful ride. With mountains on the left and the sea on the right, it felt like we had finally left the industrial side behind. The shoulders were clear, except for a few busy sections near towns. An evening coffee and our first piece of cake of the journey were enjoyed at a café. As night fell, lights and a light jacket were necessary for the cool breeze, allowing the stars to guide us the last kilometers. Arriving under a clean sky full of stars was a perfect end to the day.

We found a small Vietnamese restaurant by where we were staying, close to Baisha Beach, that felt like a miracle after a long ride.

Where to Stay at Baisha Beach

We splurged a bit these days, but it was just because we were doing so well with budgeting up until this point and wanted to do something a bit nice for ourselves. Shark B&B was wonderful. The included breakfast was delicious, it was right next to Taiwan's best beach, and it was serene.

Day 11: A Relaxed Day at Baisha Beach and a Serene Morning at Maobitou

We based ourselves near Baisha Beach, where the warm blue water and soft sand made for a perfect getaway with super light daytime crowds. Each morning, we enjoyed a simple breakfast at a nearby spot run by a kind lady and her daughter, who offered us great recommendations.

After breakfast, we walked to Maobitou Park, relishing the cliff views all to ourselves for a brief moment before the tourist buses arrived. This timing felt like a secret escape.

A tall, slender metal sculpture of a figure with a long pole stands on a grassy field overlooking the ocean—an inspiring sight for anyone dreaming of a Taiwan bike adventure along scenic Taiwan cycling routes. Blue sky and distant land complete the view. — *There is a large aboriginal population in Taiwan, which is celebrated around the country.*

After soaking in the views at Maobitou, we spent the afternoon swimming and enjoying the beach (getting some Vietnamese bánh mì sandwiches to go from the little Vietnamese restaurant from the night before). Baisha Beach might just be one of the best on the island for its calm water and spaciousness, and Fabio said it was in his top 3 favorite beaches of all time (coming from an Italian boy used to Mediterranean waters, that says something).

A sandy beach with gentle waves, clear blue water, and a distant shoreline lined with green palm trees under a bright, partly cloudy sky—an ideal spot to pause while you cycle around Taiwan or explore scenic Taiwan cycling routes. — *Seriously, one of our all-time favorite beaches with so few people.*

As evening approached, we headed over the hill to Houbihu Harbor for a seafood feast. The seafood was as fresh as it gets, straight from the water. We shared a generous plate of sashimi (only 100 NTD for 20 pieces), crisp calamari, vegetables, and bottomless rice, all while smiling at how the online ratings had misled us. Trusting the local aunties and their suggestions proved to be the best decision of the day.

A top-down view of assorted sashimi on ice, with beer, wasabi, greens, rice, and tea—perfect for refueling after a day exploring Taiwan cycling routes or planning your next cycle around Taiwan adventure. — *Sashimi and a Taiwan beer, yes please.*

Day 12: Hengchun Old Town and Its Night Market

We biked into Hengchun Old Town today. Hengchun feels plain at first, then quietly charming. The Qing era walls still stand, and you can walk sections near the gates. The night market is small, simple, and good for stocking up.

Five Volkswagen Beetle cars in vibrant colors are parked in a row on gravel near a road, inviting passersby to pause before continuing their Taiwan bike adventure or exploring popular Taiwan cycling routes on a sunny day. — *Which VW Beetle would you go for?*

A man with a backpack walks along a red brick path beside an ancient city wall, palm trees, and green grass—an inviting scene familiar to those exploring Taiwan cycling routes under a clear blue sky. — *You can walk along the perimeter of the Hengchun Old City.*

On this night, we kept dinner simple with shop noodles and eggs because we just did not want to bike again. As beautiful as Baisha Beach is, there isn't much to eat right around it.

Day 13: Final Morning at the Beach and Biking Back to Fangliao, Train to Taitung

We repeated our favorites, breakfast with our ladies at the corner spot, a last hour at Baisha complete with a coconut to drink, some more Vietnamese food, and then the long bike ride back to Fangliao, complete with our first real headwinds, for the train to Taitung in the early evening. It felt like closing a chapter with sandy feet.

Where to Stay in Taitung

We arrived quite late to Taitung, so rather than going into the main part of the city, we stayed quite close to the rail station at Sun Rich Homestay. It is a nice, no-frills option, the host is nice, and he provides a simple breakfast from one of the local eateries in the morning.

Days 14 to 20: Cycling from Taitung to Hualien through Scenic Routes and Coastal Delights

The last five to six days were all about the east of Taiwan, known for dramatic coastlines where mountains meet the sea, as well as the East Riff Valley, which was easily my favorite part of the trip. It was also the trickiest time in terms of biking, as the gradients got steeper and the headwinds stronger. We also had to pivot a bit here, as the wind became too strong, causing us to stay one more night than expected somewhere along the way.

Day 14: Navigating Headwinds and Bike Repairs in Taitung

Taitung initially greeted us with heat, headwinds, a slow 1% uphill for many, many kilometers, and a bike that needed love. We re‑inflated Fabio's soft tire twice, then accepted we needed a tube change in full sun. The chain jumped off and wedged between the frame and cassette. We took the wheel off, reset the chain, and re‑seated brake pads that had popped loose. We learned the anatomy of our bikes by necessity, which is honestly a humbling experience. Then we ate lunch, drank bubble tea, and felt human again.

A partially constructed, uniquely shaped concrete building with an unfinished spire stands on cleared ground, along popular Taiwan cycling routes. Scaffolding and construction debris are visible, surrounded by green trees under a clear blue sky. — *This house, which looks like it is from 'A Series of Unfortunate Events' should have been taken as an omen for the day we were about to have.*

Want to spend more time in Taitung?

We didn't get to spend much time in Taitung, and avoided the city completely, but if you have some more time to linger, check out some of the tours on offer there:

Then a shift to a downhill into beautiful Luye and Longtian Village (with many old Japanese-style houses) brought our mood back up, and that evening Guanshan’s Hakka dishes gave us a new set of flavors and Fabio finally won something from one of the many claw machines scattered all around Taiwan.

Refuel after you cycle around Taiwan with a meal of stir-fried noodles topped with a fried egg, minced meat, and bok choy, served alongside clear soup with meatballs and a side of pickled vegetables. — *Trying some Hakka food in Guanshan certainly helped make us feel better.*

Where to Stay in Guanshan

This is a no-brainer. You must stay at the Chin Shan B&B. The owner is super sweet, maybe a little too obsessed with Doraemon (based on the interior), and the place is clean and will soothe your soul after that long uphill from Taitung into the East Riff Valley.

A white and gray cat is curled up inside a green plastic crate, surrounded by several brown eggs, looking directly at the camera—a cozy moment before setting off on a Taiwan bike adventure. The crate rests comfortably on a wooden chair. — *The only non-Doraemon themed item at Chin Shan B&B 🤣.*

Day 15: Guanshan to Chishang

Guanshan’s cycle loop is famous as Taiwan’s first, but parts were closed. We rode the open half in the pouring rain.

This day, we made a short hop to Chishang, where rice fields go on like a painting. We did a bit of wandering around the town that day, but with the rain in full force that day, we also used it as an excuse to lounge in our bed.

A man wearing a helmet, poncho, and backpack stands smiling in front of a lush green rice field with misty mountains—capturing the spirit of a Taiwan bike adventure. — *The rain couldn't put a halt to our adventures thanks to our FamilyMart eco-friendly ponchos.*

Where to Stay in Chishang

We were the only guests at the Chishang Daoxiang Hotel. The place offers spacious and cozy rooms, good views of the city, and generous vouchers to the restaurant down the street that the owner of the hotel also runs.

A man in a sleeveless shirt leans on a tiled balcony railing, gazing out over a small town with green fields and mountains—a serene moment for anyone inspired to explore cycling routes Taiwan has to offer. — *Chishang hotel terrace views.*

Day 16: Exploring Chishang's Rice Fields and Iconic Bento Stop

We rode 15 km looping around the paddies of Chishang, where a tree from an old commercial attracted many photographers. We joined them, capturing the moment without regret. Afterward, we picked up bento boxes at the famous shop with the parked train car. Although the inside was full, we enjoyed our meal outside, still smiling.

A man in a light gray tank top and black shorts stands on a wooden platform overlooking lush green rice fields—an inspiring stop along scenic Taiwan cycling routes, with mountains and cloudy skies framing the backdrop. — *Endless rice paddies in Chishang. Chishang supplies much of Taiwan with rice.*

Continuing onward, we biked another 30 kilometers to Yuli. In the evening, we indulged in the area's specialty, stinky tofu, which turned out to be one of the best we've had in Taiwan, though it's definitely an acquired taste!

A person uses chopsticks to eat a dish of fried tofu topped with shredded vegetables and herbs, served on a white square plate with sauce—perfect for refueling during a Taiwan bike adventure. — *Yuli is known for its stinky tofu.*

Where to Stay in Yuli

Another place with bizarre decor, Mei Di Ya House felt much like that of a children's hospital, but it did the job for the night and the best part was the owner let us have all the snacks we wanted, which was much appreciated after another long-ish biking leg.

Alternatively, there are hot springs in the area, so for a really nice place, head to An Tong Hot Spring Hotel.

Day 17: Yuli to the Coast via Yuchang Tunnel, Changbin, and the Tropic of Cancer

Floods near Guangfu from the recent super typhoon forced us to change our usual route north. From Yuli, we detoured to the coast via the Yuchang Tunnel, the steepest climb of our trip, where we ended up walking sections before entering the quiet, safe tunnel that runs for two and a half kilometers. On the far side, we dropped down to Highway 11, with the ocean suddenly close by. We stopped in Changbin for a classic 7‑Eleven break, snapped a photo at the Tropic of Cancer marker, and continued north.

A scenic view from a wooden railing overlooking lush green hills, dense trees, and a distant blue ocean beneath a bright, partly cloudy sky—perfect inspiration for your next Taiwan bike adventure. — *The moment we got our of the tunnel, the coast became visible.*

A tall white monument with black vertical Chinese characters stands against a cloudy sky, surrounded by trees and silhouetted hills—a striking landmark often seen along popular Taiwan cycling routes. — *The weather started changing as soon as we officially left the tropics at this Tropic of Cancer marker on the coast.*

Arriving in Fengbin well after dark, our phones buzzed with government alerts about incoming Force 10 winds. After a quick dinner and some downtime at 7‑Eleven, we pushed through the last 5 km to our stay for the night, Sea Princess, grateful to be indoors as the wind picked up.

Where to Stay in Fengbin

There aren't many options, but we were grateful to have found the Sea Princess. The place was immaculately clean, the views of the churning sea during the storm was cool, and the breakfast was huge. The kind owner gave us an upgrade to a larger room and because of the weather we stayed there two nights. Just beware that there isn't much around in terms of food, except for a nice seafood restaurant around 1 km south or a beef noodle place a 5-minute walk north.

Days 18–19: Stormy Layover in Fengbin and the Final Ride to Hualien

The Sea Princess felt like a hug during high winds the next day. We ate warm breakfasts, stocked up on snacks, and took an unplanned rest day. Once the rain and wind eased, we rode carefully to Hualien City on Day 19 and spent the night there, getting haircuts and catching up on self-care.

Where to Stay in Hualien

For our last real night on the road, we booked an inexpensive place close to one of Hualien's famous night markets, Xiang Pin Hotel. Like most of the accommodations we came across, it was cozy, with little frills. We did love the automated pomelo wine shot dispensers.

Day 20: Returning to Taipei by Train

In the early morning, after bidding the east farewell, we took a 4-hour local train back up to Taipei. We watched the cities roll by and felt proud, tired, and a little changed. It was not heroic, but it was exactly right.

When we arrived in Taipei back at MathewBike, we were handed certificates from the owner for our journey around Taiwan. Although it felt a bit anti-climactic since we finished the journey by train, when we counted up the 856 km we did, we felt a little prouder 😉.

Two certificates titled 'CERTIFICATE OF CYCLING AROUND TAIWAN' for Fabio and Ryan, featuring dates of completion, decorative illustrations of cyclists, official stamps, and the founder's signature—celebrating their epic Taiwan cycling adventure. — *We received these lovely little certificates at the end of the huandao ☺️.*

Where to Stay in Taipei

For an inexpensive, but super well-located place in Taipei, look no further than Goldenhome Hotel. My favorite part was the bidet, the bathtub, and the ladies who ran the front desk, who were beyond friendly and smiling all the time.

And the best part is that we made it back to Taipei for Pride! Another reason to be prouder.

Two people stand on a rainbow-painted crosswalk with 'TAIPEI written on it, surrounded by busy city streets, shops, and colorful billboards—an inviting scene for anyone planning to cycle around Taiwan or explore famous Taiwan cycling routes. — *We arrived back in Taipei just in time for Taipei Pride! Planned or unplanned?!*

Our Top Tips for Cycling Around Taiwan

After nearly 3 weeks biking around Taiwan, these are the top tips we've accumulated in no particular order.

Plan Ahead for Popular Attractions
Book certain tickets in advance for places like Alishan, as last-minute planning can mean missing out.
Get an eSIM for Reliable Data
Mobile data is essential for navigation. We recommend Trip.com eSIMs, but note that some apps (like ChatGPT) may not work due to provider restrictions. Instagram and other social apps worked fine.
Expect Hot Weather—Ride Smart
Taiwan is very hot, especially midday. Many cyclists ride early or at night to avoid the heat.
Be Prepared for Highway Riding
Not all routes have dedicated bike lanes; expect to share highways with cars and trucks. Stay alert and use safety gear.
Alternate Between Nature and Cities
Taiwan’s natural spots are stunning...don’t skip them! Mix city culture with outdoor adventures for the best experience.
Sign Up for LINE with a Local Number
Many locals use LINE for communication and even payment. For just the LINE communication app, you don't need a local number, but for the payment app, you will need a local number.
Carry Cash
While some places accept cards, we found it to be far and few. Cash is preferred in many restaurants and shops.
Don’t Underestimate the East Coast
Distances may look short, but the terrain and weather can make rides exhausting. Plan accordingly.
Eat Early As Restaurants Close Early
Many restaurants close before 8 p.m. If you wait too long, you’ll be dining at 7‑Eleven (which is fine, but variety is nice).
Pack Light: Convenience Stores Are Everywhere
You don’t need to carry lots of snacks or supplies; 7‑Eleven and FamilyMart are frequent and well-stocked. There will be a bit less in the east, but we still didn't have to go too far before encountering one.
Stay Hydrated
The heat is intense. We loved Pocari Sweat for electrolytes...buy bottles or powder packs at convenience stores.
Water Is Readily Available
Most hotels and guesthouses offer filtered water, though it’s not always cold. For cold water, head to a convenience store.
Invest in a Good Bike and Gear
Make sure your bike is reliable and comes with essential tools (spare tubes, pump, etc.). Bike shops are common on the way, particularly in towns and cities, but it’s best to be prepared. Again, we recommend MathewBike for your biking needs.
Get Padded Cycling Shorts
Your butt will thank you—padded shorts make a huge difference, especially in the first few days.
Practice Repairs
Carry an extra tube and practice a quick tire change at home...being prepared makes a big difference.
Be Kind to Yourself and Stay Flexible
The route is flexible for a reason. Adjust your plans as needed and remember that kindness to yourself is just as important as any gear or itinerary.
Get Travel Insurance Before You Go
Accidents, illness, or unexpected changes can happen...especially on a cycling trip. Protect yourself and your gear with travel insurance. We recommend Genki Travel Insurance for flexible, reliable coverage. We have a full review of it here.

A person wearing a helmet and sleeveless shirt stands with a loaded touring bicycle in front of a brightly lit FamilyMart at dusk, ready to explore scenic Taiwan cycling routes. — *FamilyMarts and 7-11s are everywhere on your journey.*

Conclusion

If you want to cycle around Taiwan and you are not a pro, you absolutely can. Trains are your friend, short days are smart, and culture breaks keep spirits high. Use our route as a base, copy the pieces that speak to you, and leave the rest. Pick a start date (and potentially an end date if you really need to 😜), book a solid bike, and plan your first easy stage. The island will meet you where you are, and that is the most important part.